Flippy Skirts

Lately I've been really excited about flippy skirts, like these two. A lot of it has to do with the fact that I broke down and bought the Frye Engineer boots I was drooling over a couple of months back and have been wearing them constantly with nubby tights and short flared dresses and skirts. There's just something so practical and cozy, but still pretty, about the look, even more so when a sweater is also involved. (The boots were also first rate for shoveling out after yesterday's huge snowstorm.)

I like the two pictured skirts because despite their girlish shape, they still have a touch of elegance. The very large scale lace is fresh (and a nice change from the more common smaller scale patterns) and the wool blend has the look of raw silk, which is lavish and wonderfully tactile.

Now if only designers could get on board with the fit of these voluminous skirts. Even on the tiny sizes, the waists are always huge. Who wants something so giant that it barely stays up on the hips and constantly swivels around? The wool blend skirt looks like it might be a candidate for a well-anchored fit, but the lace one sadly appears to be a low-rider.

Lace-trimmed skirt by Binetti. Gray and white wool blend skirt by 3.1 Phillip Lim. Images from Lucky, January '08.

Perfect Restraint

As you can see, in this case, less is definitely more. The skirt and top seem to be the epitome of simplicity, but the effect is breathtaking and the look utterly classic. Let's begin with the fineness of the knit and the gorgeous drape of the skirt. It's neither voluminous, nor clingy, and projects complete ease, while suggesting the lines of the body. The knit detailing at the collar and sleeve cuffs is feminine without being frilly, womanly as opposed to girlish. Again, the long short sleeves and shawl neckline were born to flatter. The simple diamond studs are the perfect counterpart to the clothing: when something is so perfect, it doesn't need embellishment.

I wonder if this kind of matched knit skirt and top could usually be worn in place of a suit. Admittedly, the soft lines of knit fabric are instantly more casual, but the conservative silhouette and neutral matched color of top and skirt gesture in the direction of suiting. The look is quiet, polished and pulled-together, but with a gentle confidence that would only perhaps be out of place in the most formal and aggressive environment.

Image from Vogue, October '07.

Feminine Winter Layers

These outfits, in an ad campaign for Italian design, totally blow me away. I've been trying to figure out how I want to incorporate more comfortable yet put-together, pale and feminine skirts and dresses into my day wardrobe this season, while layering enough to keep warm. These two images offer some solid ideas that I plan to steal.

First of all, notice that they both employ the 'skirt-over-a-skirt' trend that I noticed early last season and which, I'm surprised to say, I have not yet heard mentioned by a single fashion editor. I'm still loving the look. In both these outfits, the underskirt has a full shape and is made from a textured, solid-colored fabric that has a slight rigidity to it. On top of it, both models are wearing sweater-dresses that are similarly full on the bottom, with gathered waists and fitted bodices. The colors are also kept in the same family.

I like what's going on with hosiery and shoes in the second image as well. Let's leave aside the inherent goodness of the shoes, which are an interesting departure from the ubiquitous plain ballet flat and which, from the red soles, seem to be Louboutins. I love the idea of the lace-pattered knee highs but because knee highs carry a very young connotation, I would probably swap them out for thigh-highs or over-knees. I also like the way the color of the shoes repeat the color of the dress, but that of the socks offers some contrast, while staying in the same family. It keeps the look from seeming too deliberately matched, but keeps the colors quiet.

All in all, an excellent lesson in feminine winter layering.

Clothes by Romeo Gigli for Rebecca Brown. Images from Harper's Bazaar, October '07.

Vera Wang at Kohl's

I'm very excited about the new collection that Vera Wang is designing for Kohl's. I've marked my calendar accordingly for September 9th, the drop date, and plan to be at my nearest Kohl's first thing that morning. The fact that the prices aren't bargain basement cheap actually makes me more optimistic that the collection is going to be a strong one, since it hopefully means Vera Wang had some leeway in buying reasonable quality textiles and workmanship. I do wish there had been more or better magazine coverage, beyond the rather lackluster ad campaign in which anything that seems remotely interesting is photographed too close up to actually be able to get a sense of the item's details.

I did, however, come across this straightforward, eminently practical skirt in Blueprint:



It's supposed to be jersey, which should mean a close and comfortable fit, which is obviously key with a pencil skirt.

Then there's this blouse:



This is exactly the kind of delicate, feminine yet modern piece that attracts me to her style. Hopefully the wide, fairly bulky short sleeves would be flattering....

What do you think so far? Are you planning to hit up Kohl's for Simply Vera Wang?

First image from Blueprint, September/October '07. Second image from Vogue, September '07.

Head to Toe Black in Ad Campaigns

There are a couple of ad campaigns out right now that are making great use of head-to-toe black outfits. These first two images are in all the magazines right now because they're part of Gap's Fall '07 campaign:





I like this dress so much that when I first saw the ad a few weeks back, I went looking for the dress at my local Gap. It wasn't in stores then, but maybe it is by now. I'm craving a sweater dress this season, but nothing too trendy. For the past few seasons, because of the empire waist fad, it's been hard to find dresses that are fitted at the natural waist. (Shopping for summer dresses this year was such a challenge!) I think this Gap version is a simple, surely inexpensive way to work around the problem. It's so utterly basic that it could never hurt to have it on hand. At the same time, it has the potential to become a foundational favorite, depending on how it fits and the quality of the wool. I like the cap sleeves, which make it office- and winter-appropriate when topped with something long-sleeved. I think I'd be pretty quick to belt it, though it might look surprisingly good belt-free.

These next two pictures are from Moschino's Fall campaign:





Even though the first is an empire-waisted dress, I could see trying to work this item, since it doesn't scream "shapeless sack" or "maternity wear". I think what's helping it is the drape of the fabric, bubble hem and the gathering beneath the bust. There's a little more structure there than with the average empire-waist dress and the bare arms and decolletage would give some sense of the proportions of the body within. For me, it would likely remain an evening look, a way to refresh the silhouettes of my little black cocktail dresses.

Even better than the dress is the skirt and top combo in the second look. The blouse is just great: form-fitting, with delicate ruffles. I also like the textured fabric of the skirt and the overall shape.

I have a feeling that every August, after wearing pale colors all summer, I tend to look forward to the elegant simplicity of black. These images offer some nice ideas and inspiration for ways to wear the look this fall.

All images from Elle, September '07.

Flippy Tweed Skirt

I think this flippy tweed skirt would be a perfect addition to a fall wardrobe. The classic black and white tweed is a cinch to work into outfits. The flirty shape and length are what made it catch my eye, though. I love that Derek Lam chose a hefty material in order to give structure to the flared silhouette.

The thigh high stockings in the photo are cute, but a little school-girlish for my taste when paired with a twirly mini skirt. Instead, I'd wear the skirt with thick tights, tall boots. and something smooth and curve-hugging up top, like a thin, slightly glossy, silk knit.

Skirt by Derek Lam. Image from Harper's Bazaar, July '07.

A Skirt Over A Skirt

Here is a styling idea I’ve been noticing in the glossies for the past 6 months or so: a skirt worn over a skirt or, as here, a dress worn over a dress. I have no idea why no fashion editors have called attention to it yet. I love the look because it’s
ultra-feminine, but a little quirky at the same time. It manages to be both creative and fashion-forward but at the same time looks back to a time in history when petticoats, underskirts and overskirts were the usual way of dressing.

There are a couple of tricks to pulling off the look. To begin with, you want volume, but not too much volume. A nipped-in waist is essential. Then you need to consider three things about the skirts involved.

First, how heavy are each of the fabrics? In these photos, the top skirts are made of very light fabrics, while the bottom ones are cut from heavier ones. But I’ve also seen the reverse: a heavier top fabric paired with a lighter bottom one. I think the
principle is simply that there should be some weight (so not, say, chiffon worn over chiffon) but not a ton of heft (like velvet worn over velvet). In the first case, the look wouldn’t be structured and wouldn’t lie flat, in the second case, it would be uncomfortably heavy to wear. Plus, mixing things up keeps them funky and interesting.

Second, how long are the skirts? You want the bottom skirt to be longer, but not too much longer than the top one. A four or five inch difference seems about ideal. Enough to look deliberate and not like the underskirt is a poorly-chosen slip. Also, in terms of length, the underskirt should hit right at, or just slightly below, the knee, and the right length for the overskirt can be figured from there: slightly mini as opposed to super short.

Third, you’ll want to think about the shape of the skirts. They need to be of similar shape, since you’re aiming for an unbroken line on the silhouette. That said, as here, both could be flouncy or flared, in which case, carefully considering the weight of the fabrics becomes all the more important, because there will be that much more volume and movement involved.
Alternatively, both could be fitted pencil skirts. In that case, to make the look more vintage and less sporty, the underskirt would do well to have a four or five inch-long ruffled hem. Then the overskirt would end at exactly the point where the underskirt’s ruffles start.

That’s a lot to balance to pull this look off, but the fabulousness of the successful result makes it incredibly enticing to try. If you’re game for a fashion challenge, this one’s for you.

Images from Harper’s Bazaar, June ‘07.

Hourglass Tulips and Lace

This look is wonderfully feminine because of the outfit’s hourglass shape and the décolletage with its touch of innocent eyelet. It takes a lot of confidence about one’s hips to wear a paper bag skirt, but I think this works perfectly because of the very wide neckline on the blouse, which balances it out, and because snug fit through the torso. The slight texture of the blouse is another enticing detail but I wish the skirt was a polished, straightforward cotton, instead of the denim. I’m not a fan of the necklace, which seems too cheap, young and casual. I think I’d let the cleavage speak for itself and go with delicate filigree gold earrings instead, to draw the eye up. The finishing touch might be peep-toe or pointy-toed d’Orsay pumps.

Image from Lucky, June ‘07